Alberta Ate

18 May
Rodeo Royalty! The Calgary Stampede queen and princesses welcomed us to Richmond Station

Rodeo Royalty! The Calgary Stampede queen and princesses welcomed us to Richmond Station

I bought a wonderful picture last week – a print of a painting by the young Japanese artist Sae Kimura of a dog barking at the moon. The dog (really a dog-cat cross) is called Joni (pronounced Johnny) and is a frequent hero of Sae’s extraordinary, whimsical, profound pictures. She currently has an exhibition at Harvest Kitchen on Harbord Street. I’ve never eaten there, but I will do so very soon because the restaurant’s Managing Director is Jill McAbe, one of the principals of JOV Bistro, back in the day, and a woman who would not be associated with anywhere that was less than stellar. She spoke at Terroir on Monday, educating us all about collaborative systems in the hospitality industry. It was there, in-between speakers, sitting in the Arcadian Court, that my monkey mind made its way back to Sae and Joni.

Terroir was very interesting. I’m not going to offer a precis – just a quick thank you to Scott Vivian, chef-patron of Beast, who made me blush deeply by mentioning me from the stage. There were many fascinating speakers and a general spirit of earnest bonhommie that I found encouraging. Strong contingents from Ireland, Spain, Sweden, Nova Scotia, Newfoundland, Belize, Tuscany, Quebec, the USA, England and Alberta reminded the 700-or-so onlookers that the symposium now has an inclusive relevance far beyond the friendly confines of the GTA.

I’m delighted to say that those Albertans who came to Terroir stayed a few extra days and met up with other chefs and dignitaries who flew in from Calgary, Banff and Edmonton to put on a tremendous show of their own at Richmond Station on Wednesday night. The emcee was my friend the gastronome and food writer extraordinaire John Gilchrist (he shared the platform with Dragon’s Den star Arlene Dickinson) and nine guest chefs did the cooking. They are all part of the Alberta Ate collective, a group of chefs inspired by Toronto’s own Group of Seven, who come together in different permutations to create events like this. I don’t know if there was an actual mandate to do so, but the eight-course meal seemed designed to show Toronto that there was more to Alberta cuisine than steak. The opening act in particular, featuring Connie de Sousa (8½ months pregnant but wouldn’t miss the event) and John Jackson of Charcut, a restaurant known for its nose-to-tail meat, was splendidly unepected. The two chefs offered an elegant, delicate salad of smoked pickerel cheeks, gorgeous potatoes cut into thick coins, a dill-dressed hard-boiled quail egg and crunchy snowpeas. Little flecks of crunchy batter, threads of pickled onion and some awesome Brassica grain mustard completed the dish, along with a dressing of mustard-spiked sour cream. Lots of sturdy flavours on the plate but the salt-cured pickerel cheeks had enough personality of their own to stand out. Big Rock Warthog ale was a clever accompaniment.

Charcut's sensational salad

Charcut’s sensational salad

The idea of the evening was to showcase Albertan ingredients as well as chefs and I think it was an eye-opener for some of the Toronto crowd. There wasn’t a dish that didn’t excite. Most of the chefs had competed several times at Gold Medal Plates in either Calgary or Edmonton but a couple of them were new to me. JW Foster is the new executive chef at The Fairmont Banff Springs: he presented a braised pork and caramelized onion terrine, a firm slice dressed with mâche and tiny pickled chanterelles that had the colour and almost the texture of uni.

Duncan Ly, chef of Hotel Arts Calgary and Yellow Door Bistro, won silver in this year’s Canadian Culinary Championship. His dish on Wednesday was brilliant – a piece of almost raw, citrus-cured rainbow trout over a hot-sour consommé made from the trout’s bones and spiked with a funky hint of fish sauce. Fresh sugar snap peas, wilted baby spinach, fondant potato and a few trout eggs were part of the fun, as was a bowl of crispy trout skin chips. A creamy cocktail like a Sour made with Alberta premium rye worked really well with it.

Duncan Ly's amazing trout and trout-bone hot-sour consomme

Duncan Ly’s amazing trout and trout-bone hot-sour consomme

And so we progressed… Justin Leboe of the highly esteemed Model Milk in Calgary gave us elk tartar with an insanely delicious sauce made by puréeing raw oysters, ramps and sour cheese until it had the colour and texture of lobster tomalley. Chef and visual artist Pierre Lamielle of Food on your Shirt had fun with a Beet Wellington. Blair Lebsack of RGE RD in Edmonton cooked pheasant breast with a supple crepe filled with the leg meat, Sylvan Star gruyere and roasted onion. Chef jan Hansen of Heritage Park brought the savoury procession to a close with sous vide lamb loin, pickled beets and roasted carrot purée.

Karine Moulin of hotel Arts provided dessert -  a dense chocolate and Saskatoon berry cake with wild blueberry chantilly and crispy green flax praline.

Amazingly, we finished on time and a fine time was had by all. I now have a smart white Stetson which I wear around the house.








New Zealand Wine

09 May

The New Zealand Wine fair blew into town yesterday with a stellar gathering of wine producers showing off their work for trade and media. It was a splendid opportunity to taste beyond the normal availabilities of Vintages and the LCBO, and there were treats galore. Robert Ketchin organizes the event and he started with a walk-about pour-your-own tasting of 16 Pinot Noirs from various parts of the country, designed to showcase regional differences. For me, one wine stood out dramatically from the pack – Ostler Vineyards Caroline’s Pinot Noir 2011. Grown in the Waitaki Valley on the south island, the vineyards sit on limestone – rare in NZ – and the Pinot has an underlying minerality that sits firm beneath the sliding, prismatic illusions of cherries and damsons, liquorice, dark chocolate and smoke. If you want some you’ll have to contact the agent, Mark Cuff at The Living Vine Inc. It costs around $55 a bottle.

Other wines that made a big impression on me? Loveblock Sauvignon Blanc 2013 is going to be in the Vintages July 7th release ($25.95). It’s made by Erica and Kim Crawford (yes, that Kim Crawford) from grapes grown high in the hills above Marlborough’s Awatere Valley. It’s fragrant, delicate, luminous – not one of those big, pungent New Zealand Sauvignons that jump out of the glass at you.

Then there was the Kings Series from Marisco Vineyards in Marlborough’s Waihopai valley. Owner and winemaker Brent Marris traces his family all the way back to one of the 35 illegitimate children of King Henry I and he calls his Chardonnay The King’s Bastard. His peachy, oak-touched, hint-of-nutmeg Pinot Gris is named The King’s Thorn, for a subsequent member of the family who refused to give up the Isle of Lundy to Henry II. Then there’s A Sticky End, a delectably sweet Sauvignon Blanc made from grapes that grow in a shadowy part of the estate and where botrytis develops every autumn. Named for another ancestor who was hanged, drawn and quartered by Henry III for piracy, it has an amazing aroma of toast and marmalade, tastes of honey and peaches and apricots and has a delicate acidity that keeps the sticky weight and sweetness from feeling too overwhelming. Not sure if we’ll be seeing any of these wines in our liquor store but a quick call to the agent, Peter Sainsbury of Glencairn Wine Merchants, might secure you a case on private order.



Mr. Kawamura’s spatula

28 Apr


Here’s a pretty thing, an Easter gift from my daughter-in-law. It looks like the paddle for a glove puppet’s canoe; in fact, it is a cooking spatula made in Japan by Mr. Tsuneo Kawamura out of hinoki wood. This particular hinoki tree (also known as the Japanese cypress) grows on the slopes of Mt. Fuji. The spatula has a marvelous fragrance, sweeter and not quite as resinous as cedar. I imagine, if I use it to stir rice simmering in the pan, it might impart a subtle sense of that coniferous aroma to the rice. But that would presumably diminish the spatula’s own rare scent. An old dilemma: there is always a price to pay for transient pleasures.


Terroir and MC2 – coming attractions

11 Apr

Terroir Symposium 2014 jpeg

Looks like Arlene Stein and the Terroir team have done it   again – another extraordinary line-up for this year’s Hospitality Symposium   with major gastronomical celebrities, both local and international.

Terroir takes place a month from now on May 12th   at Oliver & Bonacini’s regal Arcadian Court.

Definitely not to be missed!

Check out the line-up:

Chef Demos by Visit Sweden
Magnus Ek, Chef Ozxen Krog & Slip at Djurården
Daniel Berlin, Restaurant Daniel Berlin
Fia Gulliksson, Food in Action
Frida Ronge, vRÅ

Potluck Lunch: A collaboration between American and Canadian Chefs
Lauren Resler, Empellón Cocina & Empellón Taqueria, New York City
Kristen Kish, Menton, Boston
Jamie Malone, Sea Change, Minneapolis
Sarah Simmons, City Grit, New York City
Sonja Finn, Dinette, Pittsburg
Heather Mordue, L’unita, Toronto
Alex Feswick, The Drake Hotel, Toronto
Charlotte Langley, Story’s
Amanda Ray, Biff’s Bistro, Toronto
Michelle Edgar, The Sweet Escape, Toronto
Lora Kirk, Ruby Watchco, Toronto
Tobey Nemeth, Edulis Restaurant, Toronto
Léonie Lila, The Libertine, Toronto

Main Stage Presentations
David Chang, Chef, Momofuku NYC and Toronto
Daniel Boulud, Chef, Boulud, NYC and Café Boulud, Toronto
Norman Laprise, Chef, Toqué, Montréal  in conversation with Jim   Poris, Food Arts
Shaun Majumder, Actor/writer, Majumder Manor, Burlington Community   Business Initiative
Krystina Roman, Rosewood Wines, Niagara
Albert Adrià, Chef, Tickets & 41?, Barcelona
Margot Henderson & Melanie Arnold, Arnold & Henderson,   Rochelle Canteen, UK
Amanda Cohen, Chef/Owner, Dirt Candy, NYC

Lucky BEEF – Peter Meehan from Lucky Peach in conversation with
David MacMillan & Frédéric Morin, Joe Beef, Liverpool House &   Vin Papillon, Montréal

Jill McAbe, Restaurant Management Consulting
Brandon Baltzley, Chef & creative director, Crux & TMIP,   Michigan City IN

How we collaborate with The Group of Seven Chefs, Toronto &
Alessandro Porcelli, Founder & Director, Cook it Raw

Live from Hartwood – Eric Werner, Chef, Hartwood, Tulum Mexico
Mara Jernigan, Director, Belcampo Belize
Grant Soto, Comedian aka screenwriter Taylor Clarke
Fia Gulliksson, Food In Action
Thomas Bachelder, Winemaker, The Bachelder Project
Charlotte Horton - Winemaker, Castello di Potentino

Creative Culinary Communities
Panel moderated by Rebecca LeHeup, Executive Director of the Ontario   Culinary Tourism Alliance, featuring Dimitrios Zarikos, Regional   Vice President & General Manager, The Four Seasons Hotel; Anne-Marie   (Ami) Hovstadius, VisitSweden and Helen McDaid, Fáilte Ireland

For ticket purchase and more information, visit
Join the conversation on Twitter: @TerroirTalk  #Terroir8  Instagram: TerroirTalk


Meanwhile, this just in from Cava:

On Monday April 28th, Cava is delighted to welcome Murray McDonald, chef of Newfoundland’s award winning Fogo Island Inn for “MC²”, in a collaboration with Chris McDonald exploring the historical intersection of Iberia and Newfoundland.

Originally from Newfoundland, Chef Murray has returned to his home province after developing his culinary skills in China, New Zealand, Mexico and Bermuda.

Now residing and working at the remote outport of Fogo Island, Chef Murray is dedicated to supporting local talent and showcasing local ingredients, foraged, fished and farmed on Fogo Island.

Join the two McDonalds for this unique six course collaborative dinner including innovative beverage pairings. It will be an evening to remember.

$150 plus taxes and gratuities.

Monday April 28. 6:30pm

Cava Restaurant, 1560 Yonge Street

Please reserve at 416-979-9918

Seating is extremely limited



Bar Senator

22 Mar

senator bar

If you hanker to be the anti-hero of your very own film noir, I know the place where your adventure can begin. Head over to The Senator after 9:00 p.m., when the last of the dinner crowd has melted into the night. That’s when they turn down the lights and set out candles on the tables in those vintage booths. Ease onto a stool at the bar and ask bartender Tim Morse to make you a house Derby – a tart, boozy mix of Maker’s Mark bourbon, Earl Grey-infused Dillon’s gin, Lillet Blanc, lemon juice and fresh mint. Look around you while you nurse the first of many. Sure, it’s still The Senator – still rocking 1948, when the place was last redecorated – and it’ll be serving breakfast as usual in a few short hours. But Bobby Sniderman, his son Zachary and manager Peter Moscone have a new plan for their beloved sanctum. From 9 to midnight it becomes Bar Senator and a very cool spot it is.

I was there last Thursday night when they launched the concept. I had expected Edward Hopper’s Night Hawks but the mood was far more merry. DJ Matt Cully of “Goin’ Steady” was playing anything from Motown girl bands to Dolly Parton to Sinatra. Chef Andrew Taylor was sending out miniaturized versions of his wicked, panko-crusted crab cakes, Cumbrae beef sliders, tangy guacamole with crunchy crudités, and tiny grilled cheese sandwiches as if afternoon tea at Downton Abbey had found its way to Pittsburgh. They are all parts of the new bar menu at Bar Senator and the crowd was loving them.

The crowd… Who will they be on nights to come, I wonder? There aren’t many places this close to Dundas Square where a person can relax with a cocktail and a crab cake. The after-theatre crowd will congregate, I imagine. Hipsters will totally get it, sliding into the booth under the retro Coca Cola billboard (there are many homages to the Dark Master at the Senator). Ryerson sophisticates who crave style, not just empty calories, may also contribute to the clientele. As will any citizens of our unique metropolis who have a sense of history. And also, of course, the aforementioned wannabe-film-noir-anti-heroes in their trench coats and homburgs. I have a special pair of spectacles that turn this garish technicolor world to black-and-white and I wore them all through the party that Thursday night. It was the right thing to do.

Bar Senator (The Senator Restaurant) 249 Victoria Street, (416) 364-7517

senator coca small





Time to vote?

17 Mar

Loutses flowers sm

My koubaros, Philip Parginos, sends me this photograph to remind me that spring has already arrived in the mountains of Corfu. The implicit question, of course, is why am I here, chipping ice from my little patch of Toronto’s sooty tundra when I could be there, watching plants grow in the sunshine. Meanwhile, I read that voting has begun in the Veneto to find out whether the local population favours secession from Italy and the return of an independent Venetian Republic. Corfu was part of that Republic for 400 years, until the coming of the Corsican monster. Is it time to put the pieces back together?


The history of Harry Rosen video

14 Mar

Harry Rosen has created rather a good video about the company’s first 60 years. You can find it here:


St. Patrick McMurray – at it again

06 Mar

shucker contest


The Ontario Hostelry Gold Awards 2014

02 Mar


And the nominees are…

It seems fitting on Oscars night to mention the Ontario Hostelry Institute’s annual gala where gold awards are handed out to the chosen luminaries of Ontario’s hospitality industry. These are our own Oscars, really, and the winners are selected by past awardees under the aegis of the OHI’s chair and president (for lo these 24 years), J. Charles Grieco. It’s good and proper to honour the industry’s stars but the OHI serves another purpose, providing scholarships and bursaries to talented young people who might not otherwise be able to afford professional training. It also supports the up-and-coming young idea with its 30 under 30 program. Funds raised at the gala provide the wherewithal to do this important work and it’s also a lovely evening out. This year’s gala and awards dinner takes place at the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto on April 24. Buy a ticket or a table at

Mr. Grieco has given me permission to name this year’s honorees in advance of the great event.

Educator: Deborah Pratt, Winery public Relations, Great Estates of Niagara.

Media/publishing: Jennifer Bain, author and Food Editor at the Toronto Star.

Chef: the great Arpi Magyar, Executive Chef and Proprietor of Couture Cuisine.

Supplier: Lynn Siegal of Hilite Fine Foods Inc.

Foodservice-Chain Operator: Annie Young-Scrivner, President, Starbucks Canada.

Independent Restaurateur: Tony and Mario Amaro, Co-owners, Opus Restaurant.

Hotelier: Heather McCrory, SVP Operations, Americas, Fairmont Raffles Hotels International Hotels & Resorts.

Artisan: Jonathan Forbes, Founder, Forbes Wild Foods.

A powerful list indeed, and sincere congratulations to them all.


essential reading

26 Feb