{"id":2982,"date":"2014-02-10T22:56:55","date_gmt":"2014-02-11T03:56:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jameschatto.com\/?p=2982"},"modified":"2014-02-16T00:16:17","modified_gmt":"2014-02-16T05:16:17","slug":"the-canadian-culinary-championships-2014-report","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/?p=2982","title":{"rendered":"The Canadian Culinary Championships 2014 report"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Podium-at-CCC.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-2984\" alt=\"Podium at CCC\" src=\"http:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Podium-at-CCC-300x200.jpg\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Podium-at-CCC-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Podium-at-CCC-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Podium-at-CCC.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Let the competition begin! Famous last words on Thursday night as each of our competing champion chefs was given his or her bottle of mystery wine, a pair of culinary students from Okanagan College\u2019s Culinary Arts program to complete her or his brigade of two (or in one case, one) sous chefs, and sent off into the night to start working on a perfectly paired dish. The wine (personally selected by our National Wine Advisor, David Lawrason, its identity a secret so closely guarded that he would have had to kill me if he\u2019d told me in advance) could be seen to be white, but that was all any of us knew. The chefs\u2019 task was made more difficult because they had to prepare their dish for 425 guests as well as the judges and they were obliged to spend no more than their allowance of $550 in total. Try throwing a dinner party and spending $1.22 on each guest! Furthermore, everything, from salt and oil up, had to be purchased in Kelowna on Friday morning. During the afternoon, our culinary referee checked every receipt and received back any unspent coins. Jonathan Thauberger of Regina spent all but $6; Marysol Foucault of Ottawa-Gatineau handed back a record $170 surplus! Then the chefs and their sous chefs and their dishes were ferried from the prep kitchens at Okanagan College\u2019s Culinary Arts faculty to the Delta Grand.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Excitement on the evening was intense. The crowd oohed and aahed at the magnificent new BMW that is this year\u2019s bonus prize for the ultimate winner of the CCC and they listened intently as each chef took the stage before we began and described their dish and the thinking behind it. The wine, incidentally, turned out to be a fascinating white blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris with a splash of Viognier \u2013 Laughing Stock\u2019s 2012 \u201cBlind Trust\u201d from B.C.\u2019s Naramata Bench. An aromatic wine with a hint of oak and bright acidity, it softened and broadened considerably in the glass, a change which may have thrown some of the chefs off their matches a tad. The Mystery wine flowed freely among the crowd who moved from chef\u2019s station to station, tasting and evaluating. They filled out their own score cards and produced their own People\u2019s Choice award at the end of the evening, giving their prize to Chef Duncan Ly of Yellow Door Bistro in Calgary. Meanwhile, the judges, holding their peace, took their seats at a perfectly illuminated table outside the main event and waited for what might come.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 First up, From Calgary, Chef Duncan Ly of Yellow Door Bistro, a chef who has competed at the CCC before and certainly knows the ropes. \u201cI set out to play off the acidity and the wine\u2019s herbal and fruity notes,\u201d he explained. His dish was a dainty quintet of Japanese refinement, five upright tubes of cucumber ribbon, some filled with finely chopped ahi tuna, Asian pear and fresh roe, others with pomelo and dried apple. Textures were ethereal but flavours deep. The little tubes were scattered with a minuscule crumble of peanut and puffed quinoa while the plate was decorated with shaved radish, tiny mint leaves and hints of cilantro. A pool of clear liquid turned out to be citrus spiked with fish sauce, precisely matched to the texture and intensity of the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Ottawa-Gatineau, Chef Marysol Foucault of Edgar, in Gatineau, showed next, her dish dramatically plated far to one side, allowing her to finish it at the judges\u2019 table by pouring on her sauce. She had found baked apple in the wine and so tossed some morsels of caramelized pickled apple with the spaetzle that lay beside her main protein of delectably tender pulled chicken confit. Other components included grainy mustard, thyme, brussels sprout leaves, smoky bacon, pungent little threads of charred meyer lemon zest, grated hazelnuts, shards of crispy chicken skin and charred shallots. And the sauce she finished it with was a rich, Quebecois smoked pork hock broth. Such a delicious mosaic of flavours to complement the richness of the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From St. John\u2019s, Chef Roger Andrews of Relish Gourmet Burgers created a dish of three separate components. The first was a block of maple-lacquered, smoked pork belly, awesomely delicious and perfectly textured. Beside it was a mound of mushroom ragout made from chopped chanterelle and crimini mushrooms cooked with chicken stock, garlic and shallots that worked particularly well with the wine. Balanced on the ragout, a crunchy slice of garlic toast was topped with aerated goat yoghurt. The third element was a whole olive-oil-poached tomato \u2013 basically a juice-and-flavour bomb that was a brilliant complement to the rest of the dish and unexpectedly well matched to the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Edmonton, Chef Paul Shufelt of Century Hospitality Group also gave us pork belly, the meat slow-braised then quickly seared, glazed with honey, soy and lemongrass. He set the tasty meat on a hank of rice vermicelli tossed with julienned Granny Smith apple, baby radish, pea tendrils, fresh mint, pistachios and some pickled red onion, all moistened by a honey gastrique and by a squeeze of the lime wedge he included on the plate. The overall effect was like a highly sophisticated, deconstructed Vietnamese roll \u2013 very refreshing and a good match with the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Regina, Chef Jonathan Thauberger of Crave Kitchen + Wine Bar created a spectacular little burger-shaped creation, baking a miniature peach-and-yam bagel that he instructed us to eat with our fingers. Inside was a slice of perfectly cooked veal sweetbreads, some subtle bacon torchon and a vanilla-scented ricotta cheese that chef made himself during the morning. There was apple slaw and yam pur\u00e9e on the plate, both reflecting aspects Chef had found in the wine, and some yummy sunchoke chips for crunch. The big surprise was a pickled smelt on a skewer. Cured in a citrus escabeche and topped with kumquat, its tangy fishiness was decidedly forthright and some judges felt a bit too much for the wine. But this was the slider from heaven.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Fom Montreal, Chef Danny St. Pierre of Auguste, in Sherbrooke, Que., found plenty of minerality in the wine and reflected this with a fluid gel of grapefruit and by spiking his pur\u00e9e of parsnips with an intense mussel jus. Both were fine accompaniments to his main event, a trout tartare flavoured with saffron-infused fennel and garnished with trout roe, white corn and parsnip chips. The tartare was a splendid match for the mystery wine, the musselly pur\u00e9e a touch too powerful, but the overall effect was most impressive.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Saskatoon, Chef Trevor Robertson of Aroma Rest-bar in the Radisson Hotel presented a block of succulent pork belly, cooked sous vide and glazed with a chili honey. He used green apple and fresh fennel to build a flavour bridge into the wine, strengthening the relationship with a green apple gel, garnishes of radish and baby tomato and a dainty ricepaper crisp. The biggest flavour on the plate was an intense, sapid tomato fennel jam that came dangerously close to pushing the wine around.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Representing British Columbia, Chef Brian Skinner of The Acorn, in Vancouver, offered a brilliant and accurate analysis of the wine, finding minerality and oaky vanilla in its complex personality and admiring the length of its finish. Seeking to match not trump the vino, he proposed \u201ca trio of cauliflower cheese\u201d in keeping with the vegetarian mandate of his restaurant. The dish looked absolutely spectacular, its elements arranged in a circle like a carved Grinling Gibbons garland. Cauliflower had been dealt with three ways \u2013 seared in juniper oil; pur\u00e9ed with brown butter and dijon mustard; and pickled with bay, cumin and chili. The cheesy pur\u00e9e alluded to cauliflower cheese while opaque white petals of organic Similkameen shallots, poached in a vegetable court bouillon, added another contrasting texture and taste to the plate. Matchsticks of tart apple dyed purple with beet juice referred to the earthiness Chef found in the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Winnipeg, Chef Kelly Cattani of Elements the Restaurant, also had a very clear vision of the wine, identifying the viognier in the blend. Her dish wowed the judges \u2013 raw scallops cured for three hours in sake and mirin and paired with miso butter sauce. A salad of Asian flavours included wakame, baby kale, green onion, sesame and pickled Asian pear with tobiko roe for colour and saltiness. A slice of serrano chili sealed the deal. Textures were amazing, the balance of components very strong but several of the judges felt the dish changed the taste of the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Toronto, Chef Lorenzo Loseto of George Restaurant created a sensory mosaic of carefully interlocking flavours and textures. At its heart was a fluffy goat cheese mousse served on a broad ribbon of yellow beet carpaccio. A salad of julienned fuji apple and truffle-scented black trumpet mushrooms was topped with a mere suggestion of smoked bacon and Chef also used bacon fat as a subtle brush on an olive bread crisp. There were brussels sprout leaves, scattered beet crumble and brown dots of a reduced jelly of beet and aged balsamic \u2013 all perfectly harmonious and precisely in tune with the wine.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">From Halifax, Chef Martin Ruiz Salvador of Fleur de Sel, in Lunenburg, presented our final plate of the evening, and it was splendid. Here was a salad of diced smoked strugeon with fennel and cucumber garnished with fennel fronds and drizzled with a clove-and-orange-juice cream. Chef had formed it into a ring that held a pool of green fennel and leek vichyssoise. White leek fondue added a second soft rich texture, spooned onto the vichyssoise. There was more of the salad in the centre of the pool, an island upon which lay a gorgeous, pan-seared oyster that picked up the minerality in the wine very nicely indeed.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">The judges retired to their deliberation room and added up their scores. It was like watching the beginning of a long-distance race, the athletes all in a bunch with no one prepared to take the lead. The six leading chefs were only separated by three percentage points; the other five almost as close. This was absolutely anyone\u2019s game.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Saturday morning. The Black Box competition. Over the years of the CCC, we have tried to flummox the chefs by filling the black box of mystery ingredients with such arcane items as wild liquorice root, dulse or live crabs, or else we have given them a meat that is exceptionally difficult to cook in less than an hour. This year, I thought we might take a different route, giving them much more everyday things to work with, things we can all cook, hoping they would come up with spectacular, imaginative and different solutions to the competition. So we started our list of six components with a chicken \u2013 a whole, 8-lb organic chicken from Sterling Springs farm near Kelowna, introduced by the farmer herself, Lisa Dueck. A bunch of local parsnips from Greencroft Gardens in Grindrod, B.C. A container of Cornect Family Farm honey butter from Nova Scotia, one of many generous donations to our weekend from Taste of Nova Scotia. A bag of gorgeous, intensely flavourful Saskatchewan cherries from Dean Kreutzer of Over the Hill Orchards in Saskatchewan. Two perfect, whole, gutted but otherwise immaculate trout from West Creek Farms in B.C. And finally a bag of fresh lion\u2019s mane fungus that looked like white pompoms, from Champignons Le Coprin in Gatineau. All these Canadian culinary treasures were donated and on behalf of Gold Medal Plates and the Canadian Culinary Championships I\u2019d like to thank the donors profusely.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Each chef had to use these ingredients in one or other of two plates they had to devise and prepare for the judges and they had precisely an hour to do it. Lateness or failure to use one of the ingredients would be severely penalized. Alas, two of our competitors incurred penalties. Kelly Cattani was more than a minute and half late plating her second dish. Martin Ruiz Salvador, standing describing his dishes for the judges, realized with horror that he had forgotten to put the fungus he had cooked onto his plate. Our hearts went out to them both, but the rules are written in stone.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">I won\u2019t list each of the 22 dishes we received. There was a great deal of repetition. Most chefs decided to fillet and pan-sear their trout. Most chefs chose to pur\u00e9e their parsnips. Only Danny St. Pierre used the bones of his chicken to supercharge the chicken stock from the pantry; hardly anyone worked with the fowl\u2019s dark meat\u2026 But every dish had moments to delight us!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thank you, Trevor Robertson, for a great lemon and honey-butter beurre blanc and for using the cherries with the thyme-scented chicken forcemeat you put inside the breast.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thank you, Martin Ruiz Salvador, for the delectable little cilantro-studded mushu pancake under your roast chicken breast.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Kelly Cattani, thanks for the awesome, gingery broth in your trout hot pot.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Merci, Danny St. Pierre, for getting crisp skin onto your trout fillet and for mashing, not pur\u00e9eing your parsnips.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thank you, Brian Skinner for a chicken mousseline quenelle with the texture of a cloud.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thanks to you, Lorenzo Loseto, for putting colour on your beautiful plates and for marinating your trout instead of cooking it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Jonathan Thauberger, it was a great idea to do a cold dish and a hot one, and to warm the plate! Thank you for the yummy trout tartare and the chicken breast roulade.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Merci, Marysol Foucault, for the spare perfection of your presentation and for the delectable cherry gastrique (the best use of the cherries in the entire competition), the garlicky lemon aioli and the parsnip r\u00f6sti.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thank you Duncan Ly for giving us crunchy brunoise of parsnip in your red wine gastrique and for the chicken leg meat in the beautiful little dumpling.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Thank you, Roger Andrews, for the delicious herbed potato \u201cbar\u201d and for figuring out that cutting up the fungus and saut\u00e9eing it hard meant it wouldn\u2019t soak up so much liquid.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">And thank you, Paul Shufelt, for the great dijon spaetzle you made so fast to go with your chicken and for roasting off your parsnips in the honey butter.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">So, where did we stand after the Black Box? That front-running pack of chefs had changed personnel a little and there was a hint of daylight beginning to show between the first four or five and the rest of the field. Who was out in front? By a nose, Danny St. Pierre, with Duncan Ly and Lorenzo Loseto right on his heels. But it was still impossible to call. Everything would depend on the Grand Finale.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Saturday night. The Grand Finale. <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chefs often go to great lengths to create their signature dish for the Grand Finale. Martin Ruiz Salvador may have trumped them all in putting together his contribution, a very different idea from the refined version of a breakfast collation that had won him gold in Halifax. He sent a fisherman out to sea, 35 miles into the Atlantic to harvest 70 gallons of pure sea water. He froze some of it around the gorgeous South Shore lobsters he shipped out to Kelowna, and brought the rest to poach the lobsters to a perfect state of quivering rarity. There were two principal accompaniments, both soft, weighty textures and both exotically flavoured. One was a white corn polenta stirred with parsnip and topped with two squares of tofu in a shallot-parsley-lemon zest dressing. The other was a mayo made with rendered bone marrow and chopped seaweed for a dazzling taste of the seashore. Shredded radishes, that Chef had fermented in sea water for three months, added a unique tang, and a strewing of pork scrunchions for richness and crunch delighted everyone. The final garnish was a rosette of hana tsunomata seaweed. I found it a brilliant dish, beautifully matched to his wine, the Benjamin Bridge Tidal Bay 2012, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Vidal grown in Nova Scotia\u2019s Gaspereau Valley.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Brian Skinner showed next, with a dish that wowed the judges with its gorgeous aromas and flavours. Cylinders of different sizes turned out to be different things \u2013 drums of smoked king oyster mushroom or of confited potato. Quartered, roasted purple heirloom carrots lay across them while big petals of braised shallot brought a different kind of sweetness. Dazzlingly orange, tissue-thin shards of peppery carrot meringue were intensely flavourful. A thick, rich mushroom jus united the spectrum of tastes like a thrown blanket while little dots of jelly made from 20-year-old sherry (the only ingredient that came from farther than 100 miles from Chef\u2019s restaurant) provided an edge of acidity. The wine match was impeccable \u2013 Clos du Soleil Chegwin &amp; Baessler Pinot Blanc 2012 from B.C.\u2019s Similkameen Valley.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_2988\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2988\" style=\"width: 272px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"wp-image-2988 \" style=\"margin-right: 30px;\" alt=\"Lorenzo Loseto\" src=\"http:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Winning_Dish_Lorenzo_Loseto-300x200.jpg\" width=\"272\" height=\"180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Winning_Dish_Lorenzo_Loseto-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Winning_Dish_Lorenzo_Loseto-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Winning_Dish_Lorenzo_Loseto.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 272px) 100vw, 272px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-2988\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Lorenzo Loseto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Third up was Lorenzo Loseto, presenting a slimmed-down version of his golden Toronto dish. At its heart were thick slices of superb ahi tuna that had been rolled in potato threads and deep-fried for the seconds needed to crisp them. The tuna itself remained essentially raw, glossy and dark as a polished Indian ruby. Carrot and pear were the accompanying components. Some of the carrots had been roasted in butter and transformed by tapioca and multidextrin into little marshmallow-textured nubbins of flavour. A finely chopped salad of carrot and pear was dressed with a gingered jasmine reduction. Radish provided moments of subtle heat, while a beet-stained, tartly pickled, obliquely cut slice of fennel added an unexpected tang. Drops of highly seasoned peppercorn mayo stood as an optional condiment for the tuna and a flourish of fennel pollen and pistachio powder finished the dish. 2010 Old Vine Riesling from Kew Vineyards on Niagara\u2019s Beamsville Bench, a wine full of the aromas of petrol and lemon zest, was an inspired match.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Marysol Foucault catapulted herself into the frontrunners with a fabulous dish. Her original intention had been to serve bear meat but instead she settled for a combination of wild boar belly, cooked sous vide for 36 hours then wrapped around rabbit loin with pink peppercrons and cooked for eight hours more. Tender, moist and flavourful, this chunk of meat was set over a dense chestnut pur\u00e9e that had been spiked with double-smoked bacon and strewn with fragments of chestnut, lemon and espalette pepper. A sweet parsnip puff and parsnip chips reprised the weekend\u2019s inescapable ingredient and there were other delicious elements to be found, including a rabbit liver brown butter, two sauces using beets \u2013 one yellow, another a dark gastrique. Maintaining the boreal theme, Chef had soaked lichen in sortil\u00e8ge whisky and fried it to crispness. This beautifully conceived dish was well paired with Clossen Chase \u201cThe Brock\u201d Chardonnay 2011 from Ontario\u2019s Niagara River.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Duncan Ly presented the dish that had won him victory in Calgary \u2013 a slim slice of a superb terrine made with side stripe prawns and pig\u2019s ear set in a matrix of firm, finely textured braised and ground pork neck, cheek and jowl. Once sliced, the prawns showed as white circles against the meat while the pig\u2019s ear (amazingly tender) was a narrow white stripe curving across the surface. A mint-apple gel\u00e9e created a slim green rim to the slice. On one corner, Chef left a small mound of soft powder made from peanut and pork floss. To brighten the richness of the terrine, he made a crisp, fresh salad of finely julienned apple spiked with mint and a discreet sweet-sour dressing. An \u201cAsian hot mustard and garlic sauce\u201d turned out to be more of a gently spiced a\u00efoli while the dish\u2019s garnishes \u2013 a miniature rice crisp and some viola petals \u2013 looked as pretty as a picture. Chef\u2019s wine match was remarkably successful \u2013 the Peller Estates NV Ice Cuv\u00e9e ros\u00e9 sparkler from Niagara, its off-dry fruitiness and sly acidity enhancing all the flavours on the plate.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Sixth to the table was Chef Roger Andrews. He chose to work with squab, stuffing the double breast with whole pistachios and chanterelles, cooking it sous vide and then finishing it in a hot pan to rendeer the fat and crisp the skin. The meat was awe-inspiringly delicious, as was its sauce, made from the reduced juices quickened with a hit of a low-lying shrub called Labrador tea. The second component garnered rave reviews from the public and from many of the judges \u2013 a salad of crunchy-soft puffed wild rice, cloudberries, lowbush blueberries and flower petals moistened with a hibiscus vinaigrette. Then there was a silky squash pur\u00e9e spiced with cumin and cayenne to match the pepperiness in the wine, and a moment of maple-scented apple compressed with green onion. Chef matched his squab very nicely indeed with the Norman Hardie 2012 Pinot Noir from Prince Edward County, Ont.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Kelly Cattani played with local ingredients but Asian flavours for her signature dish. The star of the plate was a tataki-style treatment of Manitoban elk, seared very briefly in avocado oil then sliced remarkably thinly. She laid it over cool, delicious soba noodles and spread a half moon of roughly pur\u00e9ed edamame beans across the plate. Pickled carrots and ginger added zing to the soba salad while crimson microgreens proved a subtly earthy garnish. Chili oil added more pizzazz and a togarashu rice crisp was the final touch. The elk worked well with the bright, fresh 2011 Blue Mountain Pinot Noir from Okanagan Falls, B.C.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Trevor Robertson presenting a plate that looked like a Joan Miro painting \u2013 stunningly colourful and graphic. Above a thin purple line of haskap berry gastrique, we found slices of his \u201cduck press,\u201d a finely textured Muscovy duck terrine studded with squares of foie gras, black truffle and shiitake under a pistachio crust. Pale yellow streaks of Morden corn beurre blanc underlay the terrine beside apricot pearls and cut-out circles of glossy corn gel. Twists of duck breast prosciutto reinforced the protein component while a scoop of smoked corn sorbet turned everything on its head with a weird and woodsy wow factor. Nk\u2019Mip Winemaker\u2019s Series 2012 Pinot Noir from Osoyoos, B.C. was Chef\u2019s choice, a wine that worked particularly well with the duck prosciutto.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Jonathan Thauberger prepared rabbit for us \u2013 the deboned loin and saddle stuffed with baby leek and carrot and a forcemeat made with sour cherries and cooked sous vide. He set this tender ballotine on a piece of brioche toast partially hidden beneath a piping of rabbit stock compound butter. Meanwhile a deep, dark reduction of the rabbit jus throbbed flavour like a fretless bass guitar in the hands of Roger Waters. Nasturtiums from Chef\u2019s own garden became a sweetish jelly and also a seasoning powder while a single orange nasturtium petal and leaf were the elegant garnish. A miniature salad of cat tails and a sour cherry reduction finished the plate. The wine match was a light-on-its-feet 2010 Bordeaux blend called Two Hoots from Fairview Cellars in Oliver, B.C.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Danny St. Pierre presented a fascinating warm salad of braised beef tongue, thinly sliced and arranged on the plate as a flat oblong of meat, almost like carpaccio. A savoury glaze of soy, fish sauce, maple, balsamic and sesame oil added gloss and cohesion to the tongue. Organized on top were other elements designed, like the glaze and the tongue itself, to harmonize impeccably with the wine. Instants of a clove-scented confited-cranberry pur\u00e9e mimicked the wine\u2019s flavour. Onion drizzled with horseradish added its own piquancy as did the cool heat of thinly sliced radish. A fried quail egg sat on top, its runny yolk released by one\u2019s fork to become a rich sauce and the egg itself was strewn with very finely cut marrowbone croutons, their crunch contrasting with the softness of the tongue. Perhaps it was the egg yolk that disturbed some of Chef\u2019s careful harmonies. The wine he chose, even before he created the dish to go with it, was Vignoble Carone Venice 2011 Cabernet Severnyi from Lanoraie, Que.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">Chef Paul Shufelt was our final competitor. He had taken all the off-cuts of Tangle Ridge Ranch lamb and braised them for six to eight hours in a light veal stock with Syrah, pomegranate and fresh mint. Then he pulled the meat apart and laid it over a \u201crisotto\u201d of faro grains cooked in stock from the roasted lamb bones . Yellowfoot chanterelles saut\u00e9ed with shallots and garlic were one garnish; another was thin slices of pickled candystripe beets, lending dramatic colour and refreshing acidity. Crispy leeks and micro mint seedlings added pop while whole pomegranate seeds looked like jewels on the plate. It was a dish of true \u201crustic refinement\u201d as Chef intended, well matched with Mission Hill Select Lot Collection Syrah 2011 from the Okanagan Valley, B.C.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #000000;\">So there you have it\u2026 To be sure, the Grand Finale truly lived up to its billing, with all the chefs pushing their pace up to maximum and much jockeying for position as we finally crossed the line. It would be safe to say that every competitor this weekend performed like a star but only three toques can fit on the podium. Danny St. Pierre won our bronze medal. Duncan Ly won the silver. Lorenzo Loseto won gold and becomes our new Canadian Culinary Champion. Congratulations to all the chefs and judges who worked so hard this weekend to find our new Champion.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Let the competition begin! Famous last words on Thursday night as each of our competing champion chefs was given his or her bottle of mystery wine, a pair of culinary students from Okanagan College\u2019s Culinary Arts program to complete her or his brigade of two (or in one case, one) sous chefs, and sent off [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[93,91,1],"tags":[8,528,204,30,196],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2982"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2982"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2982\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2997,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2982\/revisions\/2997"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2982"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2982"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jameschatto.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2982"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}