After last week’s heady triumph in Halifax, the Gold Medal Plates team rode into Edmonton full of vim and vigour and all prepared to party. We were not disappointed. Leading the musical shenanigans for the sold-out, decked-out Shaw Centre (the largest crowd in the history of GMP) were Barney Bentall, Dustin Bentall, Eric Reed and George Canyon, who totally rocked the evening along. Simon Whitfield was the charming emcee, as quick and merry as ever, and Marnie McBean cross-examined the host of Olympic athletes, thrilling the already enrgized room.
Meanwhile, the judges, having moved from their satin-smothered judging table back to the top-secret Chamber of Deliberations, agreed that once again culinary and competitive standards among the chefs were impressively high. Gorgeous Alberta lamb, beef, pork, elk, rabbit and duck were all on the menu as were more nose-to-tail treats such as pork cheek and veal tongue and tail. Multitudes of mushrooms were everywhere (one of the advantages of holding these competitions in the fall). Mary Bailey (sommelier, wine instructor, food, wine and travel writer) is our Senior Judge in Edmonton, ably abetted by world-renowned pastry chef and educator Clayton Folkers, food consultant and teacher Gail Hall, food writer for The Edmonton Journal Liane Faulder, chef Chris Wood, chef and restaurateur Brad Smoliak, and two-time GMP gold medallist, chef Nathin Bye of Wildflower Grill.
Paul Campbell of Café de Ville won the bronze medal. The judges welcomed the fact that he served his dish at an appropriate temperature, had warmed the plates and decanted his wine. He chose to work with a succulent petit tournedos of fine Alberta beef, cooking it sous vide and then presenting it as a kind of deconstructed Beef Wellington. He had wrapped the fillet in prosciutto and set it beside a swirl of an incredibly silky purée of goose foie gras, chanterelle and cauliflower mushrooms. A single baby carrot leaned jauntily against the beef, next to a crisp potato gaufrette and a triangle of puff pastry. Chef finished the dish with a rich jus made with his chosen red wine, a tangy Bordeaux blend called Meritage Reserve 2010 from Red Rooster Winery on B.C.’s Naramata Bench.
Our silver medal went to Chef Doreen Prei of the Edmonton Petroleum Club. She took local duck breasts and marinated them in a reduction of cherry and Smith Teamaker’s Kandy tea then she used the duck liver to make a butter-smooth paté which she cut into cubes and dusted with powdered hazelnut. A single cube lay on each plate, a meltingly rich mouthful that elicited moans of pleasure from many a guest. The rest of her dainty dish was almost in miniature – coloured balls the size of peas which were perfectly turned spheres of carrot, squash and zucchini, a wee drum of disarmingly tender confited potato, and, almost stealing the show, tiny mushrooms, pale and sleek, that had been lightly smoked. That smokiness was one of many reasons why Chef Prei’s wine match was one of the hits of the evening, working with the cherry in her reduction to make a great pairing with Kettle Valley’s 2009 Pinot Noir from the Okanagan.
And so to gold. Paul Shufelt of Century Hospitality Group has podiumed several times at Gold Medal Plates but had never won gold – until last night. He went to Tangleridge Ranch, not far from the city, for some fabulous local lamb, breaking down the whole animals and braising the meat in lamb stock with pomegranate and a trace of mint. The pulled meat was rich, tangy, moist and marvelously flavourful, mounded over a perfectly textured “risotto” of farro grains in a tan-coloured lamb stock. There were small B.C. chanterelles as a crown, simply sautéed in butter, and some ribbons of raw baby candy cane beet that Chef Shufelt pickled for a mere fifteen minutes then twisted into crunchy, mildly tangy little cones. A scattering of pomegranate seeds for colour and crunch, a gesture of crispy leek and a sprig of micro mint… The whole dish had a lovely coherence and harmony with every component serving a purpose. The wine match was also pretty inspired – the Select Lot Collection 2010 Syrah from Mission Hill Family Estate in the Okanagan.
Paul Shufelt will be coming to Kelowna in February, joining Martín Ruiz Salvador from our Halifax competition. The champions are beginning to assemble…
And now the Edmonton Wine Report by my colleague David Lawrason, National Wine Advisor for Gold Medal Plates:
Edmonton Wine Report
Sandhill’s Big Reds Trump the Field
A pair of excellent Sandhill reds stood out in a strong field as Edmonton’s chefs laid on some rich red meat fare on a cool autumn evening. In my books, both were 90-point wines.
The complex, layered and deep Sandhill 2010 One Phantom Creek Vineyard Small Lot Collection took Best of Show by a hair, garnering two first-place votes and one second. It is a blend of Bordeaux varieties with a smidge of syrah grown on the benchlands south of Oliver. Great length and complexity here, and a wine that will cellar another five years at least.
The ripe, delicious yet balanced Sandhill 2011 Syrah finished with one first place vote and two seconds – so the three judges were unanimous on the top two finishers. A mature, nuanced Kettle Valley 2009 Pinot Noir finished a very strong third.
The Best of Show Wine Award is designed to recognize the generosity of the wineries who donate in each Gold Medal Plates city. The winning winery in each competition has increased odds in a draw to win a trip to Borgo San Felice in Tuscany. The wines are judged on their technical merit by a panel of three wine professionals; while James Chatto and the food judges are left the responsibility of judging the wine pairings
In Edmonton I was joined by two wine pros who are institutions on the local wine scene. William Bincoletto is the owner of Vines Wine Merchants, a private wine shop that has long been a supporter of Gold Medal Plates. Wilson Wu is a practiced palate and buyer for Wild Tangerine, a former GMP gold-medal-winning restaurant he owns with his sister Judy Wu. Both gentlemen frequently conduct tastings in Edmonton and travel to the world’s wine regions.
Andrew Peller Ltd – which owns Sandhill – was responsible for a tour de force showing in Edmonton, donating to three chefs, plus six wines to the VIP Reception, and a white and red pair of Wayne Gretzky wines to the Celebration portion of the evening. Wayne Gretzky 2012 Pinot Grigio from the Okanagan was my favourite white of the evening. I was also pleasantly surprised by the depth and ripeness of the Trius 2010 Merlot from Niagara, yet another example of the best “Bordeaux” varieties vintage I have seen in Ontario.
Among other winners: Red Rooster 2011 Meritage was paired with bronze medal chef Paul Campbell of Café De Ville. Silver medalist Doreen Prei worked with Kettle Valley 2009 Pinot Noir, and gold medal chef Paul Shufelt is off to the Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna with Mission Hill 2010 Small Lot Selection Syrah.
Many thanks to all the donating wineries! Other entries included Thornhaven 2011 Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay, Road 13 2011 Seventy-Four K, CedarCreek 2010 Merlot, Birds and Bees Mead from Alberta, Quails’ Gate 2012 Chasselas- Pinot Blanc- Pinot Gris and Wayne Gretzky 2012 Cabernet Syrah.