In the midst of a gastronomic golconda, we are tempted by a gypsy jewel.
Life is strange, no? Here we are, half way through our spectacular culinary/oenological tour of Niagara, having just had a brilliantly executed, cunningly assembled, altogether delectable lunch at the Good Earth Wine and Food company (of which more later) framed by famous tastings of the finest wines of Tawse, Hidden Bench and Malivoire, when some of the group ask if we can stop briefly at Flat Rock Cellars to buy some bottles of the dazzling Chardonnay tasted last night (see my next posting). What should be parked in the driveway of Flat Rock but the white ice-cream-truck-style travelling wagon of Gastronomo Vagabundo.
Quick backtrack here… The latest trend in New York and Vancouver is for gourmet street food – imaginative, righteously local/seasonal high-end cooking provided by bona fide chefs in wandering vans and carts. We don’t see that kind of guerilla haute cuisine in Toronto, where municipal legislation stamps out any attempt at impromptu creativity but, take my word for it, it’s the new cool way to eat on either side of the continent. Only last month, talented young chef Josh Wolfe left his hit Vancouver restaurant, Coast, to take to the streets and he is not alone.
But I digress. Gastronomo Vagabundo is the creation of Australian chef Adam Hynam-Smith and his Canadian partner, Tamara Jensen. Hynam-Smith was most recently working at the esteemed E18hteen in Ottawa, but he and Jensen have sunk their savings into the white van and moved to the Niagara peninsula. I had a look inside the nifty vehicle and saw fridge and freezer, deep fryer and griddle, sink and a good-sized work surface, all pristine clean. The menu is eclectic to say the least, rich in local Niagara ingredients such as the awesome heritage tomatoes from Tree & Twig but with plenty of exotic European, Thai and South East Asian twists picked up on the chefs’ travels. Many of them use a crisp taco as an edible plate. A dish called “hulk,” for example, is coconut green curry chicken with cucumber, coriander, fried shallot and lime juice. “Kraken” is Greek-style pickled octopus, taramasalata and cucumber. “Ahab Rehab” involves crispy roast pork belly, rum-punched pineapple and bajan hot sauce.
Alas, we didn’t have time for cooking. The rest of our party were already in the coach ready to leave Flat Rock but I couldn’t resist a quick order of foie gras sushi. Hynam-Smith makes a yummy torchon of foie gras seasoned with a hit of brandy and poses a slice on a maki roll of vinegared rice garnished with ginger pickled in beet juice, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a drop of ponzu caramel sauce. So delicious – and just the thing after an hour or two tasting primo Ontario Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Gastronomo Vagabundo will not be denied a Toronto appearance. The trick is to find a private place to pause – like a private car park or driveway – and set themselves up as a temporary catering venture. Then they will use twitter and other social media to spread the word. Go to their web site, www.elgastro.com to become a follower. You may be tasting the future of Canadian urban cooking.
That’s what I told the folks in the coach. They didn’t boo me for being late, probably because I had enough foie gras sushi for all. A little extra treat on the Tour of Niagara.
