“If there was ever a story overtold, it’s ours.” These are the words of Jennifer Decorte, business partner of Jean-Pierre Challet, chefs and co-owners of Ici, the miniature 24-seat bistro on the corner of Harbord Street and Manning. They took over the property two years ago, if you remember. They will finally open this coming Wednesday, after an epic battle with the city (councillor Joe Pantalone bitterly opposed their being granted a liquor licence) and less public but equally frustrating struggles with the building’s infrastructure. Now all is well and J-P and Jennifer staged an open house all day today to thank the neighbourhood for its patience.
I must say, the space looks great now – high stools at the bar and counter, a long magenta silk pillow above the banquette setting off the smart grey décor. A take-out window is planned for the Harbord façade. This morning they were passing round yummy little sliders made with sliced shoulder of lamb – lambs J-P bought from Southbrook winery where they have spent the growing season in the vineyards, trimming the lowest leaves from the vines. And there were plates of his awesome croissants, the recipe perfected over literally thousands of trials during the last few years.
I had a look at the menu and wine list on the chef’s laptop. Both will change every 45 days, the menu reflecting the seasons and also J-P’s current fascination with what he calls “cuisine nouveau classique.” He has a book on the subject coming out next year but explains it as classic French dishes with a contemporary lightness of touch – and a deliciously avant-garde approach. Order beef Bourguignon, for example, and you’ll find the traditional onions and carrots expressed as a cipollini tart and a carrot-ginger purée. Lobster bisque is enhanced with salmon quenelles, autumnal corn soup with crab cakes. Wild mushroom croquettes will accompany the foie gras while veal entrecote Bordelaise comes with a marrowbone split, rather dramatically, lengthways.
For a restaurant this small, the winelist is unexpectedly large, with Ontario the main contributor, France providing the rest.
“We’re having a very quiet opening,” says J-P. “Just building the business slowly.” The neighbours who have waited so patiently may have their own ideas about that.